Article from Edible South Florida, Sustainable Living
by Richard Campbell
The Brazilians Are Coming!
Jaboticaba for the plucking at The Kampong
There’s
an invasion taking place in South Florida and it’s going to be
delicious. You can see it on the street, read about it in the newspaper
and taste it in the restaurants: the Jaboticaba.
Brazilians
are buying homes and planting trees, literally putting down roots in
our communities. Some estimates say there are as many as 200,000
Brazilians in South Florida and 300,000 in the state. We are accustomed
to these invasions, of course, so we will learn Portuguese, intermingle
and become a community. We will adapt our edible communities, and as
before we will incorporate not only the people, but also the flavors
and tastes of their homeland.
This invasion means tropical fruit
and more tropical fruit. Brazilians have a close connection with fruit.
They are world leaders in growing and consuming bananas, pineapple,
calabaza, guava and papaya. They also have a propensity for the exotic:
cupuaçu, açaí, biribá and so much more. My own household was conquered
long ago by Brazil, so I was ready. I have the trees, the fruit, the
vegetables. At times this is easier said than done – we are, of course,
different in culture and climate from Brazil. It’s generally colder,
and our soils could not be any more different. It can and will be a
frustrating reality to many Brazilians and Americans alike looking to
take advantage of this modern-day invasion. The horticultural adaption
begins now!
BEM-VINDA JABOTICABA
One fruit that most
Brazilians adore is the jaboticaba. This little grapelike fruit, native
to the south of Brazil, touches a special place in their hearts, so
much so it can be a bit baffling. It is a small tree, productive and
stunning in fruit. The fruit wrap tightly to the multiple mottled
trunks of the tree. In south central Brazil, the jaboticaba is a
sensation, consumed fresh, made into jellies, liqueurs and preserves.
Brazilians claim it as their own – even those who live thousands of
miles away and do not have access to the tree. Even the children of
Brazil are born with jaboticaba eyes.
In Brazil, most soils are
acid in nature and are well suited for jaboticaba. Here in South
Florida we have both acid and calcareous soils, and this is where it
gets tricky. If you live in Broward County and to the north, the
jaboticaba will generally grow well. But, in Miami-Dade, it’s much more
complicated and the only way to grow a jaboticaba well is to amend the
soil or to grow it in a container with a good neutral to acidic soil. A
big fan of saving my time and effort, I like to grow jaboticaba in a
container on my porch. You can control the soil and the water and make
a “working” tree for the home tree garden. You have to stay focused,
keep things watered and be little patient – or, in my case, you can
rely on your half- Brazilian children to care for the tree.
KEEP IN A CONTAINER
Our
jaboticaba grows in a large container that allows sufficient room for
the root system to expand and for more flexibility in watering. We grow
our tree in pure coconut coir, a light but absorbent material on the
neutral to acid side. We add enough nutrition to keep the jaboticaba
growing, but not too much to be a problem with burn – in a container,
you must take care with fertilizer burn. We water exclusively with our
rain barrel. It will be a test of your resolve relying completely on
the rain barrel, but the results tell the tale. Our rain water is on
the acidic side of neutral and, when combined with the coconut coir,
the jaboticaba is at home – or at least nearly so.
Under
these conditions, the jaboticaba will grow quickly, and if you’re
living right, fruiting may occur in the fourth year. Water frequently,
for the jaboticaba is adapted to flooding and will wilt and suffer with
water stress. If given good water, however, the jaboticaba will soon
begin to produce its small, white flowers, clinging tightly to the
multiple trunks. Once you have some production, invite over a few
Brazilians and watch the fun. Dive in with both feet. Eat the skins and
even the seeds as many Brazilians do. Let loose, put on the samba, eat
your jaboticaba and enjoy.
Rich in vitamin C and antioxidants,
jaboticaba have a thick skin and whitish pulp with small seeds. Store
in plastic bags or freeze to eat later.
JABOTICABA CAIPIRINHA
• One handful jaboticaba, cut in half
• Sugar
• Ice
• Cachaça
For each drink, place fruits in a glass and add sugar. Mash gently. Add ice and cachaça and stir.
Richard J. Campbell, Ph.D., is senior vice president of global operations for Ciruli Brothers, LLC.
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